Delaware Water Gap

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DISCLAIMER: The information below has been contributed by other climbers and may be completely incorrect.

GUIDEBOOK CORRECTIONS: On page 38, the text in the third paragraph should read "...between routes 38 and 46 (as numbered in Steele's Guide), is known as the Black Wall."

NEW ROUTES: Mark Ronca and Matt Hill have brought high free climbing standards to the Gap and have revived the age of iron! Ed Esmond and Doug Allcock have gotten into the act with Sleeping Beauty (10b***).

Delaware Water Gap: Mt Minsi

Big Time Football** (7 A3) Climb the low angle face just left of Crackly Corner until you are below the center of the huge roof. Aid out the roof at the inside corner facing left. Once at the lip, consecutive hook moves will bring you to easier free climbing. Continue up to join Crackly Corner. 2KB, 2LA and 2hooks**. FA: Matt Hill, solo, 3/96. Source: Mark Ronca.
Monmouth Madman (A2) Climb the slab 5 ft left of Big Dude until below the roof at a seam. Aid out the seam and hook up the face to easier ground. FA: Matt Hill, solo, 4/96. Source: Mark Ronca.
 Sleeping Beauty*** (10b G) This route is in a prominent position, on sound, clean rock. 8 cubic feet of briars were removed from the first ledge, hence the title. Start 15' left of Hell and High Water. Climb weakness to ledge, then 100 feet up steep overhanging wall. Rap from pine on High Water. #1 Friend, 1/2 Friend, medium wires, resident pro. FA: Ed Esmond, Doug Allcock, 11/97.
Lactic Acid Ladybugs** (11b PG) Starting on the Practice Face Ledge, 10 ft. to the right of Drifting Arrow, climb through the center of the three-tiered overhangs. Belay at the intersection of Drifting Arrow and Razor's Edge. Protection is good, but very strenuous. Small camming units helpful. FA: Mark Ronca, 4/96. Source: Mark Ronca.
Hillbent Hooks** (A3 or 11b PG A2) Starting on the Practice Face Ledge, stay just left of High Falls heading toward the big overhang's right side. Pull through the overhang and hook up the A3 face or free climb 5.11 to an inside corner facing right. Continue up to a hanging belay below a large roof. Climb through the roof and aid up the hanging corner; A2. Free up the face, moving right around the arete to the final belay. FA: Matt Hill, Mark Ronca, 4/96. Source: Mark Ronca.
Cataleptic Communicator** (11c PG) Starting 10 ft right of Hell and High Water, angle up right over mossy rock past a grassy ledge with a tree (possible belay). Climb an orange face past the ledge, heading towards a notch, which is in a system of overhangs. Clip a bolt and muscle through the hangs to easier face climbing and the belay. From the belay, make a rising traverse up and left with no protection. Belay at Hell and High Water's second belay. Climb a crack directly off the belay to a ledge (crux). Continue up and left to an arete and a steep face. Belay in a cave at a small tree. Two double rope rappels brings one back to the base. FA: Mark Ronca, Matt Hill, 5/96. Source: Mark Ronca.
Spoof Roof* (9- PG) Start10 ft left of Boca Roca Grande. Climb up through horribly loose rock to gain the clean face above. Head towards a small roof that is much easier than it looks and then onto a belay at a large pine. From the pine climb out right and through a lichen covered roof to the top. Except for the first 20 ft this is an excellent route. FA: Mark Ronca, Carlie Ronca, 5/96. Source: Mark Ronca.
 Oops!* (11a PG): Pitch 1: (9 R) Climb straight up to a belay below the ceiling crack of "Voyage of the Damned" - involves delicate moves over rotten rock for the first 25 feet. Pitch 2: (11a PG) Hand traverse out left from the belay on sloping buckets to the lip of the roof, pull over and join "Point Of No Return". Belay to reduce rope drag. Pitch 3: (8+) On to the top. FA: Bob Almond, Keith Thompson and Bill Markland, Summer 96. FFA: Bob Almond and Michael Flood, Fall 1996. Source: Michael Flood

Delaware Water Gap: Mt Tammany (NJ)

Suicidal Tendencies (5 G/PG) Start left of "Ride Of The Valkries". At the second belay angle up and left onto white clean rock to the top. FA: Matt Hill, free solo, 10/95. Source: Mark Ronca.
V The Final Battle*** (11a PG A4) Climb "Corner Cap" and then continue through another roof until you are below the obvious steep face. Belay at a large ledge. Climb up to an inside corner facing left which is capped with a roof. Move out right around the corner at a nice horizontal. Then fight your way to the top of the face. Belay on a sloping ledge below some ugly detached boulders. Free climb out left, crossing the traverse of "Spanning The Gap" and up into the roof system. Aid out left in a thin horizontal and up the tiered roofs heading for a large V notch. Awesome exposure and an incredible adventure on steep rock. 6 KB and 4 LA. FA: Matt Hill, Mark Ronca, 9/96. Source: Mark Ronca.
Disappointment Beaver*** (11c G/PG) Start 5 ft left of Corkscrew's second belay. Climb the corner and onto the steep face, making an awkward move past a bolt. Continue up passing good horizontals and cross Outside Chance's traverse. Pull through the center of the wide, shallow roof to a bolt. Persevere the final stretch of steep face. A great finish to any nearby route. Relentless right up to the final moves. FA: Mark Ronca, 12/96. Source: Mark Ronca.
Slacker's Ceiling (7 G/PG) Climb up over foul rock 20 ft right of War Path. Turn a bulge and belay below a clean white roof. Climb through the roof at a crack and on up the face. FA: Mark Ronca, free solo, 7/94. Source: Mark Ronca.
Do Or Fly** (12a PG) Start same as Do or Die. Climb over low angle terrain right of Do or Die to a belay alcove below the overwhelming roofs. From the alcove move out left and up to another alcove. Then leap through the steep tiers and onto the top. Double ropes helpful. FA: Mark Ronca, Matt Hill, 7/95. Source: Mark Ronca.
Dreams of Jessica* (10d G/PG) Climb the face 5 ft right of Do or Fly heading for the right side of the large roof and belay. Climb though the roof at a thin seam making a strenuous move at the lip. FA: Matt Hill, Mark Ronca, 7/95. Source: Mark Ronca.
Flail-Bopp Flake** (6 A3 G) 20' right of Outside Chance. Climb a face, then threw a small roof system. Head for the left side of Corkscrewís initial big hang. Belay below the inside corner facing left in the big hang. Aid out the corner on solid clean gear. Hook the lip, then free climb up to Corkscrew's belay. Head off the belay to a flake splitting the roof above and aid the flake on clean gear. At the lip make an exciting hook move, then nail your way through two very loose flakes. Continue through the final tiers to the Corkscrew rappel. (Dislodge the trashcan-sized flake on your rope and you'll collide with earth). 2KB, 1sky hook. FA Mark Ronca, Jeff Weiss 4/97.
The String Board* (9 G) 10' left of Medicine Man is a small solid white buttess with several roof systems. Climb the left facing corner capped with a roof. Then up the small dihedral to the top. FA Mark Ronca, Carlie Ronca 4/97
Five Tier Anniversary** (9 PG) 2' right of String Board climb through a notch, then up the white stairway of tiers. Short but fun. FA Mark Ronca, Carlie Ronca 4/97
Liquid Squeeze*** (8 G) Climb the mossy ramp 10' right of Easy Lieback past a small roof. Move up the ramp and right or move right after the roof to a sapling ( harder variation). Pull into the often wet chimney and traverse left in nice cracks. Then out the final chimney/roof to a rappel tree. Excellent! FA Mark Ronca, Matt Hill 4/97
Forces Of Pfurry*** (9 G) Start the same as Zombie Ranger. Climb midway up Zombies narrow ramp until a horizontal crack splits out the left facing wall. Traverse out the crack, making a difficult move around the corner. Up the clean face then belay out right bellow the left facing corners above. Climb up into the corner and out the roof, then up an easy dihedral. FA Mark Ronca, Dave Pfurr 5/97
Tequila Morning*** (8 PG) Climb the first pitch of Pfurry. Then climb out right to a clean roof and up past several well protected overhangs. FA Matt Hill, Mark Ronca 4/97

* KB = knife blade. LA = lost arrow piton. hook = home-made hook specially designed for the rock at the Gap.

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