South Mountain Reservation

PAGE LAST MODIFIED: February 18, 1997.

DISCLAIMER: The information below has been contributed by other climbers and may be completely incorrect.

NEW PROBLEMS: Thanks to Dave Hessler for telling us about the following problems:

(V2*) 40' from the west wall of Turtle Back Rock is the first of two overhanging boulders. Start sitting down with both hands on the lowest good hold. Avoiding the right edge, go straight up.

(V3) Starting on the left side of the previous problem, traverse low using the two conspicuous holds to the right edge, then reverse.

(V2*) Upper Lip Service 20' further west is a second boulder with a very steep overhang. Begin at the right end of the lip on a jug. Traverse left past a small right-facing corner to a jug above the nose, then down somewhat to a slanting edge and then another jug. Stay low and continue left for another 10' to the final jug around the corner.

(V4/5**) Lower Lip Service Follow the same general path as Upper Lip Service except use a lower line of holds: starting jug, small pocket, series of pinches, then go for the slanting edge to rejoin Upper Lip Service. Height dependent, easier if taller. Right-to-left variations have also been done.

(V7?) Turtle Belly (Project) Start sitting down beneath roof with left hand on small right-facing sidepull and right hand on small chip. Lunge for the lip and turn it. This problem awaits someone small enough to fit into the problem and strong enough to send it.

(V2) A very short (in length and height) right-to-left traverse of a small boulder next to the others.

(V4/5) Paper-Cut Next to the three overhanging bolders is a 20' long x 16' tall face which has several interesting, but moderate, problems and traverses (V0). At the right end of this, around the corner, is a challenging right-to-left traverse. Use the small-hand holds just below the lip, including the sharp incut (which gives the problem its name) but excluding the top and the jug near the corner. Turn the corner on the left. Variation: Do the problem and reverse it all in one link-up.

(V1+) Right to left traverse across route #19

(V2) Rubber Necking Right to left traverse passing routes 20-24 to the edge, staying 1 foot above the ground.

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