Tourne County Park (The Tourne)

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PAGE LAST MODIFIED: October 26, 1998.

DISCLAIMER: The information below has been contributed by other climbers and may be completely incorrect.

NEW ROUTES & CORRECTIONS: Author PN has worked out some new problems and discovered a new boulder. The result is a potentially much better workout in this area.

On the big boulder with large horizontals above the restroom, there are some problems that were somehow missed before. All are fun - very tricky and quite burly for their grade, involving strenuous heel-hooking and press moves. They are a great way to end a work-out. V0+* Sit-down start with hands at the left end of a horizontal above the very low ceiling. Climb straight up to the next horizontal. V1* Sit-down start same as previous problem. Hand-traverse right to a vertical crack and climb this to the next horizontal. Holds right of the crack are off for the hands. V0+ Start same as previous problems. Hand-traverse the horizontal right to the end. V1* Lay-down under the low ceiling at a vertical crack weakness to the right of the starting position for the previous problems. Start with your feet on a block under the ceiling, right-hand on a generous undercling, and left-hand on a lay-back just above the lip of the low ceiling. Move to the first horizontal. Slide left and climb some good holds without using the vertical crack just to the left.

Fannyscrapper Traverse Variations: On the original problem, you will notice a long, nearly horizontal seam traversing the crux bulge. The seam eventually turns into a generous edge, followed by jug slopers. V4 Original variation**. Stay on or below the seam until you can fire for the good, obvious flakes at the lip by the small tree. Traverse left to the end. V2* variation. Use the better holds up to two feet above the seam until you can rejoin the original variation at the good flakes. V5 or so: Stay on or below the seam until it becomes a large generous edge. This eliminates the good flakes at the lip and adds a tough setup sequence followed by a very long reach. V5 or so: When you reach the end of the original variation, don't move up to a rest. Instead, reverse the traverse.

Jackal Boulder (new). From the "Road-side Crag", walk the road towards the top of the mountain until you find a small trail into the woods on the left side of the road. A lone boulder on the right side of the road marks the trail-head. Follow the trail which goes down-hill for 100 feet and then turns sharply left. Keep walking until an obvious boulder appears on the right. The problems are on the steep side which is overhanging except for the prominent blank slab feature. The problems are listed from left to right. V0: Near the left end, start from a smile hold and go straight up. V2: To the left of the blank slab feature, start with right hand on small right-facing corner. Climb straight up. V? Project: At the left of the blank slab, a hold might be exploitable. V3*: At the right end of the blank slab, launch for an obvious side-pull (the embedded cheat-stone is out) and continue up. Cool gymnastic moves and an exciting top-out. V2? R? Incomplete: Traverse right-to-left on the steep side of the boulder - hands above the lip, feet below (i.e. feet might be on the slab feature for a bit).

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